VISTORS HELP PAGE.
If you can help please email the person with the
problem and send us a copy to put on the site. Many thanks.
Are you an expert on any make of motorcycles? By
that I mean have you restored a particular motorcycle? That makes you an expert
to someone just starting to build the same model. IF YOU CAN HELP THESE PEOPLE
E-MAIL THEM AND SEND US YOUR SUGGESTIONS ALSO.
If anyone can help me I would be most grateful. I need to
free length of the clutch springs and cups fitted to BSA six spring clutches
for the five plate 650 twins and the four plate singles to sort out which is
which in the box of spares I have inherited. I believe that they are
different lengths.
Thanks.
chris@formulaonesidecar.co.uk 10-11-07
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Most recent. 27-4-06.
From Russell Hurst
100 Evans Bay Parade
Roseneath
Wellington 6001
New Zealand.
email russellcarol@paradise.net.nz
I have owned a Sunwasp Motor Scooter(Registered
1961) since new and used every day for about 20 years.
The Scooter is powered by a 173 Villiers 2L engine with a
Siba Dynastart.
Originally it had two 6 volt batteries wired to give 12 volts to spin the starter.
The Machine was built by Sun Cycle & Fittings Co Ltd Birmingham
England.
If any one would like a look at this scooter, a very good
exploded diagram can be found on the web at
http://www.scootermaniac.org/marques/152/pubs/Sun%20Wasp%2004.jpg
For all sorts of reasons I stopped using it in 1981
and after largely breaking it down, packed it in
cartons and stored it away.
I have now retired from work (Age 74) and have
started the process of restoration.
All parts are available and in reasonable order
Question:The wiring loom needs to be completely replaced.
Unfortunately I did not make an adequate copy of this before
I "un wired" it.
Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a SunWasp
I have the Siba handbook which has a basic wiring
diagram but I am at a loss to
safely organise wiring for lights,indicators,horn etc.
Regards
Russell Hurst
----------------------------------------
I almost lost an
engine ( A 65 H ), BSA, due to the cork seals in the fuel shut offs. They
apparently dried out over time and allowed fuel to leak down into the engine
oil, diluting it to a point where lubrication protection was lost. The pistons
had just started to wipe, ( you could hear the noise ). Ended up pulling the
cylinders, and discovered slight scoring on the pistons. You could smell the
fuel in the oil. Remedy: replaced the petcocks with a unit from
a (gasp) a 73 Honda, which required a bit of work, but perhaps someone now
makes a synthetic replacement for the cork gaskets.
----------------------------------------------------------
Hi,
I have a Triumph TR6R, 650 Tiger. I am trying to find out the year, the serial number is BD40655. Can you or anyone you know help with this problem? If you could be of assistance, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You
Bill
please send reply! billthevet@hotmail.com
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Hi there,
I have a question for the message board:
I have been offered a 1959 Matchless G2, all original for £650. As I'm a 30
year biker who has only ever had jap bikes (currently own a ZXR750H2) I have no
idea of this is a good price for future investment!? Can you give me some
advice? What would be the current price for one of these?
Any help would be appreciated via email
to: zxr7h2@yahoo.co.uk
Thanks
Darren
(Darren, 1959 is not the best year as the big end worn
out very quickly - your be lucky to get 10,000 out of one. The best 250cc to
get are the late 1964 onwards CSR 250cc as they used the 250cc CS
engine/Gearbox which was made for the US market. This engine gave out 21 BHP,
and was AMC's last go at taking on the 250cc Jap bikes at that time coming into
the UK. Back to your 1959 model. The price is ok if you have the
original log book. No paper work, don't buy it because it won't go up in value
over the years. )
Webmaster.
---------------------------
Would anybody have a
picture of a 1978 triumph tiger in crimson and silver thanks
REClipper@aol.com
---------------------------
Hi there, These models
were produced between 1957 & 66 and were fitted with Villiers 250 & 350
twin engines (2T & 3T). Does anyone know where cycle parts can be obtained from
? Even photos of cycle parts would help
Many thanks Tony
---------------------
Dear Sirs,
My dad used to have an AJS
500 which he converted slightly to accomodate the fact that he had one leg (right)
by fitting a different gearbox so that the brake pedal and gear lever were on
the right hand side.The registration number was GHR 845.On occasions when he
was late for work he would detach the side car by pulling some pins and plugs
out and ride off into the distance (very quickly).I have always wondered
whether this old motor cycle is still in existance and is there any way of
tracing it.I would welcome any assistance in this matter.
Thanking you:Stan.
-----------------------------------
DRIVING IN INDIA
For the benefit of every Tom, Dick and Harry visiting India and daring to
drive on Indian roads, I am offering a few hints for survival.
They are applicable to every broad place in India except Bihar, where life
outside a vehicle is only marginally safer.
Indian road rules operate within the domain of Karma where you do your best,
and leave the results to your insurance company. The hints are as follows:
Do we drive on the left or right of the road? The answer is
"both".Basically you start on the left of the road, unless it is
occupied. In that case, go to the right, unless that is also occupied. Then
proceed by occupying the next available gap, as in chess. Just trust your instincts,
ascertain the direction, and proceed.
Adherence to road rules leads to much misery and the occasional fatality. Most
drivers don't drive, but just aim their vehicles in the intended direction.
Don't you get discouraged or underestimate yourself. Except for a belief in
reincarnation, the other drivers are not in any better position.
Don't stop at pedestrian crossings just because some fool wants to cross the
road. You may do so only if you enjoy being bumped in the back. Pedestrians
have been strictly instructed to cross only when traffic
is moving slowly or had come to a dead stop because some minister is in town.
Still some idiot may try to wade across, but then, let us not talk ill of the
dead.
Blowing your horn is not a sign of protest as in some countries. We horn to
express joy, resentment, frustration, romance, or, just mobilize a dozing cow
in the middle of the bazaar.
Keep informative books in the glove compartment. You may read them during
traffic jams, while awaiting the chief minister's motorcade, or waiting for the
rain waters to recede when over-ground traffic meets underground drainage
(Mumbai).
Night driving on Indian roads can be an exhilarating experience (for those with
the mental makeup of Genghis Khan). In a way, it is like playing Russian
roulette, because you do not know who amongst the drivers
is loaded. What looks like premature dawn on the horizon turns out to be a
truck attempting a speed record. On encountering it, just pull partly into the
field adjoining the road until the phenomenon passes. Our
roads do not have shoulders, but occasional boulders.
Do not blink your lights expecting reciprocation.The only dim thing in the
truck is the driver. The peg of illicit arrack he has had at the last stop,
added to his total cerebral functions add up to little more than a naught.
Truck drivers are the James Bonds of India, and are licensed to kill. Often you
may encounter a single powerful beam of light about six feet above the ground.
This is not a super motorbike, but a truck approaching you with a single light
on, usually the left one. It could be the right one, but never get too close to
investigate. You may prove your point posthumously.
Of course, all this occurs at night, on the trunk roads. During the daytime,
trucks are more visible, except that the drivers will never show any signals.
(And you must watch out for the rarely given signals;they are a greater
threat.) You will often observe that the cleaner who sits next to the driver,
will project his hand and wave hysterically.
This is definitely not to be construed as a signal for a left turn. The waving
is just an expression of physical relief on a hot day.
Occasionally you might see what looks like an UFO with blinking colored lights
and weird sounds emanating from within. This is an illuminated bus, full of
happy pilgrims singing bhajans. These pilgrims go at breakneck speed, seeking
contact with the almighty, often meeting with success.
Auto Rickshaw (Baby Taxi) The result of an engineered collision between a
rickshaw and an automobile, this three-wheeled vehicle works on an external
combustion engine that runs on a mixture of kerosene oil
and creosote. This triangular vehicle carries iron rods, gas cylinders or
passengers three times its weight and dimension, at an unspecified fare.
After careful geometric calculations, children are folded and packed into these
auto rickshaws until some children in the periphery are not in contact with the
vehicle at all. Then their school bags are pushed into the microscopic gaps all
round so those minor collisions with other vehicles on the road cause no
permanent damage. Of course, the
peripheral children are charged half the fare and also learn Newton's laws of
motion enroute to school.
Auto-rickshaw drivers follow the road rules depicted in the film Ben Hur,
can spin on a coin and are licensed to irritate.
Leaning Towers of Passes. Most bus passengers are given free passes and during
rush hours, there is absolute mayhem. There are passengers hanging off other
passengers, who in turn hang off the railings and the overloaded bus leans
dangerously, defying laws of gravity but obeying laws of surface tension. As
drivers get paid for overload (so many Rupees per kg of passenger), no
questions are ever asked. Steer clear of these buses by a width of three
passengers.
One-way Street. These boards are put up by the traffic people to add jest in
their otherwise drab lives. Don't stick to the literal meaning and proceed in
one direction.In metaphysical terms, it means that you cannot proceed in two
directions at once. So drive as you like, in reverse throughout, if you are the
fussy type.
Lest I sound hypercritical, I must add a positive point also. Rash and fast
driving in residential areas has been prevented by providing a "speed
breaker"; two for each house. This mound, incidentally, covers the water
and drainage pipes for that residence and is left untarred for easy
identification by the corporation authorities, should they want to recover the
pipe for year-end accounting.
If, after all this, you still want to drive in India, have your lessons between
8 pm and 11 am-when the police have gone home. The citizens are then free to
enjoy the 'FREEDOM OF SPEED' enshrined in our constitution.
Regards
Joji k
--------------------------------------------------
I would like to salvage a 2000 model
cbr600 Honda I would like to know if anyone does such jobs many thanks
-------------------------------------------
I am hoping somone be able to help me. I
bought a Phillips Panda Mark ll yesterday (Thursday 26th July} from my local
auctions.
Although it is almost complete there are
a few parts missing but I have no idea of part numbers etc.
The main parts that are missing are
headlight , tail light , fuel pipes and H.T Lead , and i assume there should be
a coil (or equivalent).
Anyone got any of these items or at least
their part numbers I would like to hear from you.
I have no information on the bike other
then the engine number which is R55833 , I am hoping that I may be able to gain
some info from the DVLA but don't hold out much hope because I don't know when
the bike was last registered.
John Allen. (UK)
john@allen294.freeserve.co.uk 27/01/01
------------------
I'm looking for a Matchless (or AJS will
do) motorcycle restorers or anyone with information on Matchless bikes in South
Africa. Can anybody help?
Trevor Porter
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi, Can anyone you help me. I am trying to identify an old triumph that I
brought
in Burma. I think it is pre-war but am not sure as I am a novice with bikes.
The numbers on the bike are Frame TL45239, Barrel E1133B and Crankcase
3HW61133. If I can identify it then I would like to start to restore it
Tony Moore ro@ensco56.apache-energy.com.au
-------------------------------------------------------
I have a late 70's 750 Bonniville I need
to know how to decode the serial number so that I can get a title for it. thank
you,
Rodger Ingram
roding@blueriver.net16/05/01
---------------------------
Help please.
Would anyone have any original photos of
this model. I can get pics of the US version and Mark 2 and 3, but not Mark 4.
Does the Mark 4 have a Triumph style prop stand?
Contact Simon.Shadbolt@ps.ge.com
-------------------------------------------------------
Hello, I have recently been given an AJS basket case, being a Triumph and BSA
man I know little of these particular machines. The engine number is 55 16M
S26636, I am assuming it is a 1955 model 16MS. Furthermore, the magneto is not
one I am familiar with, on th plate it reads Model 9R1 and type MK11A 2 55 and
at the very bottom of the plate the numbers read 42293A. Any information would
be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Jim
What you have there is a 1955 350cc AJS. The magneto would be a SR1
with an Auto advance and retard on the end. 1955 models are real problem to
rebuild as there are a lot of parts which were fitted for that year only. Brake
pedal, sub frame, bottom rails, oil tank, battery carrier and they had a silly
push on cap over the front fork nuts. The 350 were the most reliable of the
singles. The 500cc version Model 18 had the same size big end so you can see
why they were so long lasting. It is possible to make the 350cc very nippy if
you fit short rocker arms which are available quite cheaply. You can fit these
on any model up to 1964 and takes just 30 mins to do. The best year to get hold
of is a 1957 350cc model. It's so reliable you could use it for day to day
transport.
Webmaster.
-------------------------------------------------------
Could someone please
advise as to the cheapest way to overcome the use of unleaded fuel in classic
bikes, by using unleaded how long before we get valve wear/burning do most
people not worry as to converting to unleaded ,or
use LRP,what additives if any or the catalysts.
Gary Sidwell
*gary.sidwell@bt.com
Gary,
It will take about 3,000 miles or more before you seats wear out using unleaded
which is a long time. Get them done at that point with the new insterts.
Webmaster.
-------------------------------------------------
Any advice on acquiring parts on a
villiers run 250ccTwin British scooter called Dayton Albatross?I need
literature and parts lists.Manuals and information from people who have worked
with villiers engines. Another ask is any copies of literature and parts for
Triumph T10 scooter and this needs the kick start assembly replaced.If any body
has any knowledge of these id be pleased if you could let me know.Cheers
jacob.Jacobh@angelfire.com07940726489
20/3/01
-----------------------------------------------------
Is it possible to put a 1975-1977
Interstate MIII left side gear shift engine and gearbox (transmission) into a
1973Interstate right side gear shift.
--------------------------------------
Hello
I was wondering if someone could answer a question about a Norton P11 frame. I believe it is the same as a G80 Matchless frame, constructed of a Chrome Moly steel, or Renold 531.
I'm looking at one of these which has had a side stand welded to the frame tube. It's a poor welding job, and I was under the impression that you could not weld to this frame at all without disastrous results.
Does anyone there know for sure?
Thanks!
Jim Hultman
hultman@rea-alp.com 20/feb/02
………………………………
USA. Anyone on information on rebuilding rod and main bearings for 441 victor . Know anyone who does these over there? If not, can you do it? Give price and shipping cost quote for shipping from Flint, MI. USA
Upln5@cs.com 17/2/00
----------------------------
Help wanted
By luck I have my hands on a 73' Triumph Datona that is 100% complete and has a little more than 5000 miles on it. The problem is I dont know much about the bike. I am looking for any information I can find. The things I do know are that it is a 1973 triumph datona and it is a 3 cylinder engine. The engine has BSA stamped in the heads and it has a one peice gastank and fairing. I was told that there was less than 250 of these bikes made. It also has all 3 exhaust pipes on the righthand side of the bike. If anyone can send me info that would be fantastic.
ESSSTOUT@aol.com 10/12/00
-----------------------------------------
FOR YOUR INFORMATION.
Dear Sir,
I ask to take the unformation, that we have received the new and reliable
channel for export of old motorcycles to Poland. (Warsaw).
During some time these models can expect there your representative for
organization of the further export.
Cost of transportation of our motorcycles - 350 dollars without a carriage. 450
dollars with a carriage. If the help in transportation of your motorcycles, in
addition plus 100 dollars will be necessary to
you.
We give a motorcycle + technical passport + contract on behalf of the Ukrainian
citizen on your name for the subsequent export of this motorcycle from Poland.
If you have familiar in Poland and are interested in cooperation - we shall be
glad to render you the help
Best regards, Andrey mailto:cherkassy_ua@mail.ru
13/05/01
----------------------------------------------
------------------------------------------
TWIN
TIPS. AJS/MATCHLESS
CRANK FAILURES.
Most, if not all crank failures on
the early twins are caused by wear on the drive side roller bearing. Failures
usually happen just after an engine rebuild. When you have a regrind carried
out and fit new centre web bearings, always change the main bearings as well.
If the crank is allowed to flex between
the centre main and the worn roller bearing breakage will occur at high speed,
especially with the 600 and 650 twins.
ENGINE BREATHING.
At high speed (about 60/70 miles an hour)
pressure will build up in the crankcases and force oil into the primary chain
case and you will never stop that happening completely, but here is how to stop
some of it.
Drill a hole into the top of both
the exhaust rocker box covers and fit breather pipes. The air going backwards
and forwards helps keep the valves cool as well.
If you want too you can also do the same
with the covers over the inlet valves and the timing cover. There are certainly
many rocker covers (late ones) and timing covers (early ones) about but to be
on the safe side, always get a spare set before you get the drill out as it is
very important to be able to return the bike to standard should you want to
sell it.
There is now a conversion you can carry
out on your twin oil pump which will stop most of the oil leaking into the
primary chain case when the bike has been standing for a long time. Cost £30.
Please e-mail here for more details.
OIL.
It is critical to the well being of your
engine that oil levels are maintain in the oil tank. I should not go by the
mark on the outside of the oil tank - which may be a badly positioned transfer
- but run the engine for a few minutes and add oil to just below the return out
let. Oil not only lubricates, but it also does something else, it cools the
engine. Oil Flows over the hottest parts of the engine and carries away
some of the heat in the oil in the oil tank. The more oil you have in
circulation, the cooler your engine will run.
OIL COOLERS.
For the reasons of the above it must
always be a good idea for an air cool engine, but for the AJS/Matchless twins
this can cause some problems. An oil cooler can only be fitted to the oil
supply on the return pipe going back to the tank. Now the scavenge pump at best
just copes with returning the oil as it is with out putting a restriction in
the pipe. The only way an oil cooler can be fitted with out causing problems is
by using a high capacity feed pump in place of the standard scavenger pump.
Your timing cover will still fit. With this pump fitted it is possible to fit
an oil cooler on the return pipe.
OIL FILTERS.
As stated above you can fit an oil filter on the return pipe and if you try to do it using a standard scavenger pump you will be causing a restriction in the return oil flow and you can expect problems with a build up of oil in the crankcase which will drain into the primary chain case. The only oil filter you can fit on a twin is a screw in one which fits where the existing oil filter is. If you want to make one here for details.
OIL TRANSFER TO PRIMARY
CHAIN CASE.
Oil will transfer to the primary chain
case when the bike is stood up whatever you will do. The reason for this is
input side oil pump. Take the timing side cover off and watch it and you will
see. Present multi-grade oils we use these days don't help matters as they are
designed to be thin when cold and thick when hot.
When these machines were made the
manufactures assumed that the person who brought the bikes would ride them
every day, not use them just weekends in the summer and not at all in the
winter.. When they are ridden each day there is not a problem with oil
transferring. What can be done to help deal with the problem is as follows...
1. Always leave it on the centre stand if
you don't intend to use it the next day. This will allow more room in the
crankcase for the oil to collect. Had the side stand been put on the other side
of the machine it would not have been such a problem.
2. Where there is aluminium primary chain
case it is possible to fit a brass lever type petrol tap as the thread in the
drain plug is the same as in the petrol tank on the early twins. This will
allow you to put a short length of pipe on the end of it so you can leave the
tap on and let it drain into a tray. If every thing is kept clean you can
return it to the oil tank for where it came!
Note. Oil will also transfer into the primary chain case
when travelling at high speed as already stated above so the ability to release
some of it cleanly during a long run is very useful. Dump it in a lay by or in someone's
drive way if they have a bigger house than you........
FITTING HIGH CAPACITY
PUMPS FITTED TO A STANDARD MACHINE.
It is possible to fit H/C pumps to any
twin but it is not just a case of taking your old pumps off and replacing them.
You will need a timing cover which will fit over the pumps and most important,
an oil tank with a froth tower. The oil tank, while looking much the same as
the standard item was designed to fit on the 1960 onwards duplex frames so you
would have to alter the fixing points to suit an old single down tube frame.
With out the correct oil tank your oil will almost double in volume with air
bubbles. At best you will only be able to haft fill the oil tank and all you
will be giving your big ends a 50/50 oil and air mix. Not good! So be warned.
OIL PRESSURE GAUGES.
It is possible fit an oil pressure gauge
and leave it on the bike. What you do is find a second hand nut/cap, which
screws into the crankcase and holds the oil distributor in place on the end of
the exhaust camshaft. The factory recommended a pressure gauge reading up to
250 lbs. but such a gauge would very inaccurate to measure pressures when the
engine has reach it maximum working temperature. The best size one to fit is
one around 160 lbs. but one should remember, unless you are prepared to let
your engine tick over for 5 minutes you will blow the gauge. On some years no
pressure release valve was fitted and pressure can rise to over 200 lbs. until
the engine gets warm.
On a standard (hot) engine not fitted
with high capacity pumps you should see 23/30 lbs. at say 40 miles an hour.
This will drop right down to 5 LB per in on tick over. For models with high
capacity pumps you should see 45 lbs. and 8/to 10 lbs. on tick over.
MAGNETO.
Your magneto has to live in a very
hostile environments on your bike. It is advisable to take to it off the bike
every 5000 miles JUST AS THEY TELL YOU IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL. Re grease the
bearings with high melting point grease. And change the oils seal/brushes
and points. How here is the important bit. Do not use the thin paper gasket
provided with the main gasket sets but cut out a thick one from some gasket
paper and the thicker the better. This will cut down the heat transfer from
crankcase to magneto and help your magneto to live a little longer.
DYNAMO.
There is nothing more irrigating than a
dynamo that only occasionally works. These days new armatures are available for
a reasonable price so its just no worth it messing about rewinding your old
one. Your fields are unlikely to give any problems. To check them (assuming you
have taken you dynamo apart) connect the two field wires to a 6 or 12 volt
battery charger and it then becomes a powerful Electro magnet. Any metal object
then inserted inside it should be drawn to the field plate. Just do this for a
few seconds otherwise you will burn your field out.
Change brushes and re grease the
bearings with high melting point grease every 5000 miles. Do it the same
time as your magneto so you don't forget.
OIL LEAKS DYNAMO.
With the main engine gasket set they give
you a round cork gasket. Throw it away. Just put plenty of instant
gasket (silicon) on it and tighten the stud and retighten the clamp. Leave
overnight and it will never leak again.
VOLTAGE REGULATORS.
All Lucas voltage regulators are now
30/40 years old and from what I remember of them they did not work too well
when new. These days it is advisable to fit an electronic voltage regulator
such as a K-Tec. You just take
out the two bobbins in side the old regulator and fit the K-Tec inside using
one of the holes left by the removal of the bobbins and solder the k-Tec wires
in place. It takes about one hour to do and no more worries. As an added bonus
you can take this opportunity to change up to a 12-volt system. All you do is
fit a 12-volt K-Tec instead of a 6 volt one. It changes the voltage of
your dynamo automatically. How simple could a 12-volt conversation get?
The best place to put a K-Tec is in
the headlamp. One wire goes on your amp meter. Another one goes to earth. This
leaves just two wires which can only go to one place…The dynamo.
ALTERNATOR ELECTRIC'S.
With the 6 volt systems - unlike 12 volts
systems where you can used a Kenner diode, voltage regulation is almost non existent.
The best way to proceed is to take a voltage measurement with the battery still
on the bike and see what goes into the battery when you give it a good rev.
Most alternators in good condition send the battery 8/9 volts. Remember that
any wet cell battery will boil at anything above 7.5 volts so you can
understand why batteries don’t last long! With the voltmeter still connected
turn the lights on and you will see the voltage will drop to around what it
should be. If not fit a higher wattage headlamp bulb but you must somehow get
rid of that extra voltage. Any reading from just over 7 to 7.5 volts will do.
It is better to undercharge the battery than overcharge. You can always turn
the lights off for a few miles to recharge it. You're in control of things, not
the alternator!
BATTERIES.
If your electric's are all in order and
with a K-Tec fitted then any wet cell battery will be OK. However, with a wet
cell battery they have to be checked every month for water levels and if you
have to take off your toolbox cover or unbolt the battery strap this job can
become very tiresome.
The largest wet cell you can fit in a
black dummy battery box is a 6 amp. 6 volt or 12 volt. These are available in
the battery
section in 6 or 12 volt together with the dummy battery
boxes. These should be bedded inside the box with candle wax so they don't move
about.
For bikes, which are not used regularly
it is best to fit Cyclone batteries. These are dry cell batteries which you fit
inside your old battery box and provided they are bedded in candle wax so they
do not move about they will last years. You should be able to buy these from
model shops these days. You should ask for the "X" cell. These have a
five-amp rating but do the job well. Another plus is that they will hold their
charge for up to 2 years so no need to take them off and recharged them. . The
largest wet cell (cost a lot cheaper of course) which can possibly be fitted
into a dummy battery box is a 6 amp one. Again, bed them in candle wax inside
your old battery box of a dummy one.
SINGLES TIPS
AJS/MATCHLESS
It is possible to make the humble single
quite a fast machine with out sacrificing its renowned reliability. The
cheapest way to do this is to fit short rocker arms which come from the
lightweight 250/350 models and it was an old dodge used by the factory to get
by the scrutinisers on production racing. These are available for £20 a set.
When fitted they give a slightly higher lift and alter the timing slightly to
the engines benefit. The best models to do this to is the 350cc models as the
big end can cope with the additional stress. With the 500 models, unless you
have an original three piece big end or a modern day three part replacement, it
is perhaps unwise if you intend to use the machine to its maximum power. When
fitting to the five hundreds, change the timing to the 350 marks. Some shafting
sometimes takes place on the push rods but never to the point of causing
weakness.
GENERAL
AJS/MATCHLESS
CLUTCHES
The only clutch plates available these
days are the bonded type (no cork inserts). While they do the job well they
must be fitted with modern day plain plates which are dimpled to trap the oil
and which stops them sticking together. If you are experiencing a nasty crank
when you first put it into gear, then that is probably the reason. Change the
plain plates or remember to free the clutch before setting off by kicking it
over with the clutch lever in.
GEAR BOXES.
If you are experiencing difficulty in
changing gear, regardless what gearbox you are using, slacken off the chains a
bit. Most shafts are a little bent but this will keep you going until you get a
straight one.
CARBURETTORS.
Always make sure that the pilot jet is
the correct size and it is screwed fully home before fitting the brass cap.
This is the first thing to look at if you are experiencing problems with tick
over. If you see black smoke coming out, then that’s what it is! If you do not
care too much about originality then fit a concentric. You will be surprised
just how well out bikes will go with a modern carburettor on them. If you keep
your old one in a safe place your can always put it back on should you decided
to sell it to keep it original.
The gaskets provided are not good enough
to stop the heat transfer from the cylinder head to the carburettor on the
twins as someone who tries to restart a hot engine knows. Double up on all the
gaskets on the inlet manifold and carb. Remember, petrol not only makes your
engine work it also cools down the pistons and that's why your engine seems to
run more sweetly on a cold day. You can't do much about the incoming air on a
hot day but you can do something about the incoming petrol so do it.
PETROL TANKS.
Petrol tanks quite often spit and repairs can be very expensive. The 1959
tank is the worst one for spiting. Tanks bolts should never be tighten up much
more than hand tight. Your know if your got it right if you can only just feel
the engine's vibration when placing a hand on the tank. The fixing bolts have
holes in them so that you can wire them up which allow you to do this. Use
them!
Triumph
THE REAR DISC EARLY EIGHTIES TRIUMPHS
ON THE MID SEVENTIES TO THE REAR DISC CAN STICK PARTIALLY ON AND GET VERY HOT. AFTER YOU CLEAN OR REPLACE THE MASTER CYLINDER AND CLEAN AND REBUILD THE CALIPER STICKING CAN OFTEN STILL OCCUR AND EVEN WEAR OUT A NEW SET OF PADS, THE PROBLEM USUALLY OCCURS IN THE MASTER CYLINDER WHICH HAS BEEN SCREWED IN TO ITS MAXIMUM THREAD LENGTH. BACK OFF THE MASTER CYLINDER UNTIL STICKING NO LONGER OCCURS WHEN BRAKE PEDAL IS RELEASED. THEN DON'T FORGET
TO LOCK THE SET SCREW UNDER THE MASTER CYLINDER.
ED ALLYN USA. airman@netstep.net
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Boyer-Bransden Electronic Ignition
Installation
Instructions for Micro MK3 (for BSA and Triumph Triples)
Note: these instructions are provided here for
your reference only. When installing your electronic ignition you must use the
original instructions included with the product - they may include later or
revised instructions than those shown here. Triples Online will not be held
responsible for any mishap that may occur as a result of incorrect
installation. If in doubt you should take your bike to a reputable dealer.
Download these
instructions along with a copy of the wiring diagram (approx 250k)
The product includes:
a) Transistor Box (BLACK BOX with five wires)
b) Stator Plate (round printed circuit board with two coils)
c) Magnetic Rotor (round plated steel unit with three magnets)
d) 1.25" x 0.25" UNF caphead screw and washer
e) Two coil link wires (black wires with female Lucars)
f) Plastic strap
g) 2 male bullet terminals
You will also require three 6 Volt ignition coils (Lucas type 17M6 or
equivalent). The T160 has these fitted as standard.
Fitting Instructions:
Tools required: 3/16" Alien key, 2BA box spanner, 7/16" AF spanner
and screwdrivers.
1) Open seat to gain access to the ignition coils.
2) Remove the left hand side battery cover.
3) Remove fuse from the negative terminal of the battery for safety.
4) Remove the black/red, black/white and black/yellow wires from the ignition
coils and condensers. THESE ARE NO LONGER REQUIRED.
These wires run through the wiring loom down to the contact breaker housing.
(IF YOUR MACHINE HAS BULLET CONNECTORS IN THESE WIRES DOWN BY THE SWINGING ARM,
REPLACE WITH A NEW PAIR OF WIRES DIRECT FROM THE IGNITION UNIT TO THE STATOR)
S) Remove the white/yellow wires from the negative terminals of the three
ignition coils.
6) Remove the ignition coils and replace with three 6 Volt coils. If the 12
Volt ignition coils are stuck in their mountings, apply penetrating oil and, by
removing the battery, the coils can be reached from below and worked out.
7) Remove the red wire going to the earthing terminal on the condenser unit.
8) Connect the red wire to the positive (+) terminal of ignition coil no.1. See
Fig.l.
9) Using the two coil link wires join the coils as in Fig.1.
10) fit the transistor box in any convenient place near to the ignition coils,
on top of the battery or remove the condenser pack, undo
the three condensers from the bracket and replace. Fit the transistor box to
the bracket using the plastic strap.
11) Connect the red wire from the transistor box to the positive (+) terminal
of ignition coil no.1, this is the same connection as used in step 8, the coil
having a double connector. See Fig.1.
12) Connect the black wire from the transistor box to the negative terminal of
ignition coil no.3. See Fig.1.
13) Connect the white wire from the transistor box to any one of the three
white/yellow wires removed from the ignition coils in step 5.
14) Connect the black/yellow wire from the transistor box to either of the two
black/yellow wires removed from the ignition coil & condenser in step 4.
15) Connect the black/white wire from the transistor box to either of the two black/white
wires removed from the ignition coil & condenser in step 4.
16) Tape the ends of all spare wires and check all connections are good and
tight.
17) Undo the contact breaker cover and remove the contact breakers, backing
plate and auto-advance unit. Disconnect the three wires. The auto-advance unit
can be removed from its taper by putting a small piece of steel rod down the
centre and tapping it around until it drops off the taper.
18) Remove the timing side spark plug, turn the engine over until compression
is felt by placing a finger over the plug hole. Remove the triangular plate to
expose the alternator rotor and slowly rotate the engine forward until the
first appropriate mark is aligned with the pointer. This mark is the Full
Advance Timing mark (38º B.T.D.C.), which is identified in the Owners Manual.
The right hand cylinder is now on the Full Advance Timing position. The timing
marks on the alternator are at 120º but only every 240º is any one cylinder
under compression, thus it is possible to set the ignition to fire on a timing
mark but off compression.
19) Fit the magnetic rotor into the taper from which the auto-advance unit was
removed, hand tighten the caphead screw and washer provided. If the screw
bottoms in the thread before tightening the rotor, cut a small amount from it
or place a second washer under its head. The position of the magnets are shown
in Fig.2.
20) Hold the stator plate in place of where the contact breaker plate was
fitted. Set it half way along its adjustment slots, look through the timing
hole in the stator plate and the centre of one magnet screw should be seen. If
not turn the rotor unit a little until it is aligned.
21) Using an Allen key tighten the caphead screw and recheck steps 16, 19 and
20. The pickup coils must be placed as Fig.3 to overcome alternator
interference.
22) Cut the metal tabs from the ends of the black/white and black/yellow wires
and crimp on the two male bullet connectors provided. Connect the black/white
wire to the black/white wire on the stator plate. Connect the black/yellow wire
to the black/yellow wire on the stator plate. The black/red wire can be tucked
out of the way, as it is not connected.
23) Fit the stator plate with the three pillar screws that held the contact
breaker unit. See Fig.3.
24) Refit fuse and start the engine, run for 4 to 6 minutes to warm up. Connect
the strobe lamp and time to the Full Advance Timing marks with the engine
running at 5000 RPM. The timing is adjusted by moving the stator plate on its
slotted holes: anti-clockwise to advance the ignition. If the end of the
adjustment is reached then the magnetic rotor must be slackened off and moved a
little in order to obtain the correct timing. The electronic advance and retard
should be seen as the engine is accelerated up from tickover. The static timing
using the magnet screw position is sufficiently accurate for the bike to be
ridden with care to the nearest dealer for strobe timing, if necessary.
25) Refit the contact breaker cover, the timing is now set for life. The unit
requires no maintenance but the wiring, battery, coils, HT leads, plugs and
carburettors must be in good order,
General Data
1) All three ignition coils are switched together, thus any problem on one
cylinder can only be due to the ignition coil, HT lead, spark plug or the
mechanics of that cylinder.
2) This system can be run directly from the alternator using a rectifier, Zener
diode & capacitor system, provided the supply voltage does not exceed 10
Volts. The best method is to use a BOYER SINGLE PHASE POWER BOX. This replaces
these components.
3) If an electronic rev counter is to be operated from this system, the feed
must be taken from the negative (-) of no.3 ignition coil.
4) This system can be run negative earth on special machines, but the coils
must always be fed from the positive (+).
5) If the battery voltage drops below 8 Volts the unit will stop triggering.
6) Suppressor HT leads can go high resistance and give general bad running. If
this is suspected they should be changed for copper-cored leads and 5000 ohm
suppressor caps. With this system non-suppressed caps can he used.
7) The T160 machine has 6 Volt coils as standard and it will also have a
ballast resistor fitted in the circuit.
This must be removed and the white ignition box wire connected to the live wire
feeding it with the ignition on.
8) If the machine has a very different layout of electrical components the
system can sti11 be fitted provided the circuit diagram is followed.
WARNING
HIGH VOLTAGES DEVELOPED FROM THIS SYSTEM CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS - ALWAYS SWITCH
OFF BEFORE WORKING ON THE SYSTEM.
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